Showing posts with label growing strawberries. Show all posts
Showing posts with label growing strawberries. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 16, 2021

Strawberry Production 101

By Andrea Yoder & Richard de Wilde

FlavorFest Strawberries packed in
pints and ready for CSA boxes!
Strawberries are in the peak of the season right now and we are picking nearly every day just to keep up with the pace of their ripening!  We do not grow many fruits in our valley, but we take pride in our strawberries and try to deliver the best tasting berries possible.  It is no small task and requires planning in advance to make it happen.  In fact, right now we are managing two strawberry fields.  We have the field we are currently harvesting and we have a new field that was planted this spring.  We only harvest from a field for two seasons before we destroy the field, but in order to have a continuous supply of berries from year to year this means we have one year where we have two fields to manage!  So this week we thought you might find it interesting to learn a little more about how we produce these tasty little berries.

At Harmony Valley Farm, we use the “Matted Row” system of strawberry production.  This means we plant bare root dormant strawberry plants in early spring.  We source our plants from Nourse Farms in Massachusetts.  When they arrive they are frozen and don’t look like much.  Our goal is always to get them planted as soon as we can after we receive them, weather permitting.  We space them about 16-18” apart and plant two rows on a bed.  The first year we do not harvest fruit from these plants, which are called mother plants.  While they will produce blossoms, we snip them off to shunt the energy in the plant towards producing daughter plants instead of fruit.  Generally the amount of fruit a first-year plant would produce is not that great, thus it is more productive to forego the fruit and allow the plant to become more established.  The main strawberry plant will send off new growth called runners.  These runners will produce the daughter plants that will set their roots into the soil thus propagating our strawberry crop!  As the daughter plants become established the rows start to fill in and widen.

Freshly shaped beds with black drip irrigation
lines coming out of the ends of the beds.

Before we can transplant the strawberry plants, we have to prepare the field.  Despite the fact that Richard has been growing strawberries for over 30 years, we continue to find ways to improve our production system every year.  In recent years we’ve started burying drip lines under the beds so we have a way to deliver water and nutrients to the plants.   This can get a little tricky because the lines have to be buried deep enough that they don’t get tangled up in any mechanical cultivation equipment or get damaged by transplanting and weeding crews.  Their placement on the bed and the depth of the placement need to be correct for these reasons as well as others.  In a drought year these 
drip lines are crucial for keeping the field productive as we cannot use any overhead irrigation 
methods once the plants have started to set fruit.  

In order for a field to be productive and efficiently managed, we need for all the pieces of production to come together in near perfect alignment.  This year Rafael got innovative and used his experiences and observations gleaned from previous strawberry field challenges to create a modified implement.   He calls this new tool a Canoe Shaper and we used it this year to prepare the beds and lay the drip tape.   The purpose of the shaper was to prepare straight beds for planting by shaping the beds and laying the irrigation drip tape all at one time.  This new method also increases our options for mechanical cultivation.  The canoe shaper uses the dirt from the middle of the bed to shape two mini beds that are able to better support the plants and allow the drip tape to be buried at an appropriate depth.  Essentially, this modified implement allows us to build a solid foundation for all the field activities that need to happen throughout the life of the field.  So far Rafael is very pleased with the results.  The irrigation team is also pleased with the field.  Having the drip tape properly buried means less damage to the lines from weeding and cultivating tools, which in turn means less leaks they have to repair!  While we will have to hand weed the field at some point, thus far we’ve been able to deal with most weeds with mechanical cultivation.
Transplanting the mother plants.
  We’ll see how things go the rest of the season, but so far it seems that a little innovation may have helped us achieve our overall improvement goals!

This year we also widened the spacing between each bed so we have more room for the harvest crew when they are picking.  They utilize little picking carts to keep the harvest totes off the ground.  We don’t want them to damage the plants so we ask them to walk gracefully in the field, like ballerinas.  None of them are classically trained dancers, and while they are graceful, we found it is easier to preserve the plants by just giving them more space to walk and place their carts.

Over the course of the first year, we control weeds with mechanical cultivation and hand weeding.  We also provide nutrients and watch for any disease or pest problems that may need our attention.   In late summer we seed a cover crop of Japanese millet in the field which helps to shade out weeds.  Japanese millet cannot survive a frost, so it will die off with the first hard frost we get in the fall.  The benefit of this is that the millet will then become mulch for the field, how convenient!  In the fall the plants will start to produce the embryos or buds in the crown or base of the plant for the following year.  In addition to the mulch created by the millet, we will also heavily mulch the field with straw after the ground freezes but before it snows.  All of this mulch helps to insulate and protect the new growth in the crown from freezing and thawing over the winter.   When spring rolls around and the temperatures start to warm up, we have to walk through the field and loosen the straw mulch with a pitch fork so the new growth can push through.  We leave the mulch in the field where it helps to fill in the spaces between the plants, choke out the weeds and provide a clean bed for the strawberries.
Japanese Millet planted
in between rows of strawberries
  The mulch isn’t removed too soon though or the plants will start to blossom and are at greater risk of being damaged by frost.  If the blossoms are damaged by frost, they will develop a black center and will not produce a berry. This spring we experienced a late freeze, after the plants had already started to blossom.  In situations such as this we have to be ready to respond by covering the field with large row covers.  These are basically huge blankets to keep the strawberries warm and protected from frost.

Black centers in blossoms mean no fruit will form.

This year we planted 5 different varieties of strawberries.  We select the varieties based on their ripening season, flavor, color, disease resistance and production.  Every year we evaluate the plants and the characteristics of their fruit to decide which varieties we like best and want to plant again.  In California and Florida, two major strawberry producing states, the varieties they plant are “ever-bearing.”  These varieties have longer ripening seasons and have been bred to be a firmer berry with a longer shelf life to hold up to shipping.  While these strawberries often look pretty, their flavor is no comparison to any local berry you will get in early summer.  The berries we plant are “June-bearing.”  While our season is shorter in comparison, we select varieties that ripen at different times so we can extend our season as long as we can.  The hot, dry weather we’ve had this year has resulted in berries that are smaller in size, but they are quite tasty as the flavor is concentrated into a smaller package!

Jaime & Gerardo removing
 the blossoms from the mother plants.

After the harvest is done in the first year of production, we “renovate” the field.  This means we destroy some of the plants to promote more runners and daughter plant production for the next year.   When harvest is finished in the second year of production, we destroy the field.  Why do we do this when the field is still producing?  Well, we like to keep our patch as clean as we can and free from perennial weeds.  The older the patch, the greater the chance that weed seeds such as dandelion and thistle, will make their way into the patch.  A young, clean patch will usually have greater production and yields.

As you can see, there is a lot involved with strawberry production!  We hope you are enjoying this year’s crop and perhaps next year we’ll be able to resume our Strawberry Day event.  While eating strawberries out of a CSA box is a tasty experience, nothing compares to standing in the field and eating a freshly picked strawberry right off the plant, still warm from the sun.  That is one of life’s simple pleasures. 

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Celebrating & Growing Strawberries at Harmony Valley Farm


By Farmer Richard



Immature Strawberries
Strawberry Day is upon us and we hope you are making plans to visit our valley to celebrate this year’s strawberry harvest.  We are only in our first week of strawberry picking, which is about 10-14 days behind our “normal” strawberry season due to the cold, wet spring.  This year’s strawberries are looking good, and taste great!  In most years our Strawberry Day is near the end of the season whereas this year we’re just beginning the season.  Before we go any further, I want to mention a few important things for this year’s Strawberry Day event.  Normally we don’t worry too much if the kids (or adults) crawl, roll or run through the patch.  They are having a great time and we’re usually done picking most of the berries so there isn’t too much harm that can be done.  This year, we need to limit the amount of frolicking through the field.  We are proud of this beautiful field and really need to make sure we treat the plants gently and tread lightly so we don’t damage the plants or the immature berries that we want to preserve for picking over the next few weeks.  We’ll limit the traffic to our early varieties including Earliglow and our new early variety called Galletta.  These two early varieties will be in full production.  Some of our mid-season varieties are starting to produce some beautiful berries, but we need to try to stay out of this section of the field so we can continue to have abundant berries for two more weeks! 

This year's strawberry field--streamers to deter the birds!
As you prepare for your trip to the farm this weekend, please remember to pack your ballet shoes (tutu not required) so you can walk gracefully through the field like a ballet dancer and watch where you step! While I understand many members really enjoy participating in the “Heaviest Berry Contest,” we will not be able to host this activity this year.  Many of the big berries that are going to be tempting to pick will be in the part of the field that will not be open for picking.  The competition can get pretty intense some years and we often have excited participants leap off the wagon so they can run through the field in search of the winning berry.  Remember, ballet dancers don’t run.  While they do leap, we ask that you only do maneuvers such as these if you are professionally trained to do so.  Aside from the professional ballet dancers in attendance, we should all consider ourselves amateurs and limit our activity to gentle walking.  Please, do not run through the field this year!  If you do feel a sudden burst of joy coupled with the desire to run, feel free to do laps around the perimeter of the field.  Thank you in advance for your attention to these details.  If we all work together and treat the field with respect, we’ll be able to maximize our harvests this year and preserve the field for another great year in 2019!

Strawberry plants right after planting last spring.
While there won’t be a quiz about strawberry production when you come for Strawberry Day, we thought it might be interesting for our members to understand a little more about how we produce our strawberries.  We use a matted bed system of strawberry production.  This means we plant bare root dormant strawberry plants in early spring.  We space them about 12-16 inches apart.  The field we’ll be picking from this year is actually in its second year of growth, but this is our first year picking from it.  We planted the field last year, spring 2017.  The first year we do not harvest fruit.  The plants will produce blossoms, but we snip them off to shunt the energy in the plant towards producing runners for daughter plants instead of producing fruit.  Generally the amount of fruit a first-year plant would produce is not that great, thus it is more productive to forego the fruit for the sake of encouraging the plant to grow and spread.  The main strawberry plant will send off new growth called runners.  These runners will produce daughter plants that will set their roots into the soil thus propagating our strawberry crop.

Covering strawberries to protect from frost.
Over the course of the first year, we focus on controlling weeds with mechanical cultivation and hand weeding and make sure the plants have adequate water and nutrients to support their growth, health and development.  We bury drip tape under the beds before we plant so we can easily and efficiently provide water as well as nutrients when needed through these water lines. In the fall, the plants will start to produce the embryos or buds in the crown or base of the plant for the following year.  We then cover the plants heavily with straw mulch to protect this new growth from freezing and thawing over the course of the winter.  In the spring, the plants are uncovered and the mulch fills in between the plants to help choke out any weeds and to provide a clean bed for the strawberries.  The mulch isn’t removed too soon though or the plants will start blossoming and are at greater risk of being damaged by frost.  We also cover the field with large row covers, basically a huge blanket to keep the strawberries warm and protected on nights when we anticipate freezing temperatures. 

We select the varieties based on their ripening season, flavor, color, disease resistance and production potential.  Flavor is one of our most important characteristics and we typically only choose varieties that are rated as having “Excellent” flavor by Nourse Farms, the farm that produces our strawberry plants.  Genetics plays a very big role in flavor, which is why we’ve learned to trust Nourse Farms and their expert recommendations.  Every year we evaluate the plants and the characteristics of their fruit to decide which varieties we like best and want to plant again.  In California and Florida, two major strawberry producing states, the varieties they plant are “ever-bearing.”  These varieties have longer ripening seasons and have been bred to be a firmer berry with a longer shelf life to hold up to shipping.  While these strawberries often look pretty, their flavor is no comparison to any local berry you will get in early summer.  The berries we plant are “June-bearing.”  While our season is shorter in comparison, we select varieties that ripen at different times so we can extend our season as long as we can.  We have some early berries (Earliglow and our new Galetta), some mid-season, and some late ripening varieties.

After the harvest is done, we will renovate the field.  This means we will destroy some of the plants to promote more runners and daughter plant production for the next year.  We only harvest off our field for 2 years before it is destroyed and we start a new field in a different location. Why do we do this when the field is still producing?  Well, we like to keep our patch as clean as we can and free from perennial weeds.  The older the patch, the greater the chance that weed seeds such as dandelion and thistle will make their way into the patch.  This is also a means of controlling any leaf disease we may see on a variety.  A young, clean patch will usually have greater production and yields.

The best way to eat a strawberry is while standing in the patch with the sun overhead and a gentle breeze blowing across your face. While I hope you have the chance to do this, the second best option is to eat locally grown berries in season.  Sliced berries are a great topper for a bowl of cereal, ice cream, pancakes, waffles, or added to a spinach salad.  You can also preserve them to eat later in the year in the form of frozen berries, strawberry jam or syrup.  Other popular ways to enjoy strawberries include strawberry shortcake, pie, or chocolate covered berries! 

The weather looks good for this weekend’s festivities.  We have lots of other crops to show you and there may be an opportunity to pick some crops including onions and zucchini!  Of course we’ll have plenty of nice strawberries, delicious strawberry ice cream, and lots of good company as well! 

Our cabins are spoken for, but we still have lots of room in our two campgrounds if you’d like to turn your farm visit into a weekend adventure. 

We hope you enjoy your strawberries this season and we look forward to seeing you at Strawberry Day!

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

Just What Does It Take to Grow a Strawberry?

Just What Does It Take to Grow a Strawberry?
By Laurel Blomquist
Berries getting ready to go home after the party!


Strawberry season is upon us! For those of you who have been eating with the seasons for some time now, you know that this time of year is one of the most highly anticipated. What you may not know is that in order for us to provide you with as many great-tasting strawberries as we can for as long as possible, we have to plan years in advance. I sat down with Farmer Richard to get the scoop on how we grow strawberries, from start to finish.

Step 1: It all starts with genetics. We carefully select varieties based on trials we do at the farm, along with information received from Nourse Farms in Massachusetts, which is where we get our strawberry crowns for planting. We choose varieties with excellent flavor and disease resistance. Many of the plants at Nourse were bred in Canada, while other varieties were developed in the US and Germany.


The early season varieties that we are currently growing include Earliglow and AC Wendy. Earliglow is a favorite among CSA members and market patrons alike, known for its excellent flavor. It’s an heirloom variety that produces a large amount of small berries. AC Wendy is highly prolific, providing the bulk of the first crop of berries.
Strawberry Field

Midseason varieties include Darselect, Flavorfest, and Jewel. Darselect is high-yielding and dependable. Flavorfest is a new favorite, with excellent flavor and large, disease-resistant berries. Jewel was developed at Cornell University and is our best main-season plant and a reliable performer.

Our late season variety is AC Valley Sunset, which is great at extending the season a few more days. Even though we grow early, mid-, and late season berries, the total season time is usually no more than four weeks. If we get a hot streak during strawberry season, the berries can ripen very fast!  No sooner than you get to the end of the field, you have to turn around and start picking at the other end again!  We purposely plan Strawberry Day to land in approximately the third week, when berry production is peaking. We need your help to get the berries out of the field, and you reap the benefits by getting the freshest, most flavorful berries around!

New strawberry field just starting out!
Step 2: Now that we know which varieties we want to grow, it’s time to start planting. In the first year, we plant strawberry crowns in April or May. We make sure to choose a field that did not recently have either berries or plants from the solanaceae
family (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, and peppers), for maximum disease resistance. We grow plants using a matted row system, which means that we space the crowns out so that their daughter plants will fill in the row later. Spacing of the crowns is important. We need enough room for the daughter plants to fill in, but not so much that weeds will overtake the plants. Too many plants in the row will bring on leaf diseases and pests, thus proper spacing will maximize berry yield. 
Step 3: De-blossoming. In the first year, the plants will develop blossoms, but we don’t want those blossoms to grow into strawberries just yet! So we remove the blossoms, which encourages the plant to put out runners. At the ends of these runners are daughter plants. The best strawberries come from daughter plants. We space the daughter plants out to fill in the spaces between the crowns in the row. Keeping the bed weed-free is important so that we have space to place the daughter plants.


Japanese Millet cover crop in with the Strawberry field.
Step 4: Weeding! Yes, it’s not the most glamorous step, but necessary to keep the bed productive for several years. The bed needs to be kept weed-free while the crown grows runners and daughter plants. Weeding, while necessary, is tricky, since the roots of the crown are so near the surface. For the first couple of months, we can do this using a special tractor attachment with soft “fingers” to weed around the crowns. Later in the summer, around August, we need to weed by hand, because there are too many runners and daughter plants filling in the space. At this point, we plant a thick stand of Japanese millet, which will prevent future weeds and become a living mulch. It will winter kill with the first frost.
  
Mulching the field for winter.
Step 5: Mulching. In the late fall, we place a heavy layer of rye straw mulch over the plants to provide them with a more stable environment over the winter and prevent the ground they are in from freezing and thawing.  Strawberry plants are planners. In the late summer and early fall, they are thinking about their conditions and whether or not to grow a large crop the following summer. If the plants have been well weeded and fertilized, with adequate water and sunlight, they think that conditions are ripe (no pun intended) for a bountiful harvest the following year, and they form blossom buds that will become dormant over the winter and then produce flowers and fruit the following summer. If weeds are overtaking the plants, or they are lacking in nutrients, water, or sunlight, these blossom buds will not form, lowering overall yield for the following year. You can see how one year’s harvest is affected by the previous year’s maintenance (or lack thereof). These blossom buds are very sensitive to frost, which is why a thick layer of mulch is necessary.


Cover being unrolled over the Strawberries.

Covering the Strawberries.
Step 6: Insulating. In the early spring, around the first or second week of April, we check the plants for signs of new growth. Once the plants have started growing new leaves, we remove most of the thick mulch layer so the plants can emerge and grow, leaving a thin layer of straw under each plant. This layer will help deter weeds and will also give the berries a clean spot to land once they grow. You may think that this is how strawberries got their name, but humans were harvesting wild strawberries long before they used this cultivation practice. After the mulch is partially removed, an agricultural blanket is placed over the entire bed. We use this cover to protect the plants from frost.  At this point in the season we may still have some frosty nights.  The cover protects the blossom buds from freezing, which could damage the berry and impact our overall yields. 

Strawberries all covered up and safe from the frost!
Strawberries under the covers.
Step 7: Uncovering. In the late spring of the 2nd year, after threat of the last frost has passed, the blanket is removed. The plants (including the daughter plants) start producing blossoms in late May, and berries in June. It’s this brief time of the cycle that we’re in now. It may seem like a lot of berries at once, but we will lose a certain amount to birds. Bugs can also damage the berries when they enter the blossoms for sweet nectar. This is why you may find some “cat-faced” berries from time to time. The blossoms need to be pollinated in order to produce fruit, so don’t fret if you find a less-than-perfect berry. It just means that this plant got a little extra love from a bug.



Once the berry growing season is over, the beds need to be renovated so that the plants continue to produce for years to come. The plants are mowed down just above the crown, and the daughter plants are removed as well. This is done so that the plants grow new runners and daughter plants, producing delicious berries the following year. Once renovation is done, we start the process again by preparing them for winter.  After 2-3 years of berry production, depending on weed pressure, the plants are tilled in and we go back to Step 1 with a brand new set of crowns in a different field.

Picking Strawberries with Farmer Richard!
Whew! That’s a lot of year-round work for a mere month of strawberries. Now that you know how it’s done, you can appreciate these sweet beauties even more. To get a closer look at the peak production of the process, make sure you come to Strawberry Day on Sunday June 18th. We’ll have plenty of fresh berries for eating straight out of the field or for freezing for enjoyment year-round. You can see our “older” strawberry field in production and see next year’s field in its first year of being established.  They both look good now!  Farmer Richard will be there to answer any questions you may have about how to grow delicious, organic strawberries. Enjoy!
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